[News] Coca Colla: Its the Real Thing
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Wed Mar 31 10:48:55 EDT 2010
Coca Colla: Its the Real Thing
By <http://www.zcommunications.org/zspace/nikolaskozloff>Nikolas Kozloff
http://www.zcommunications.org/coca-colla-its-the-real-thing-by-nikolas-kozloff
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Move over Coca-Cola: here comes Bolivia.
The Andean nations indigenous people have long resented the U.S.
beverage company for usurping the name of their sacred coca
leaf. Now, they are aiming to take back their heritage. Recently,
the government of Evo Morales announced that it would support a plan
to produce a coca-based soft drink which would rival its fizzy
American counterpart.
Its still unclear whether the new drink will be promoted by a private
company, a state enterprise, or some type of joint venture between
the two. The new beverage will be called Coca Colla, in reference to
age old history: in Bolivia, Quechua, Aymara and other indigenous
peoples descended from the Incas are known as collas.
In a move that will undoubtedly exasperate Coke, Bolivian officials
say Coca Colla will feature a black swoosh and red label similar to
the classic Coca-Cola insignia. Coca Colla reportedly has a black
color, just like normal Coke, and could be sold on the market as
early as April.
Coca Cola robbed from us the name of our coca leaf and moreover has
cornered the market all over the world, says Julio Salazar, Secretary
General of the Bolivian Coca Growers Federation and Senator from Evo
Morales Movement Towards Socialism Party (known by its Spanish
acronym MAS). It is high time that the true owners of this natural
resource benefit by industrializing our coca, he added.
Bolivians would like to overturn the negative stigma attached to coca
leaf. Morales, an Aymara Indian, says that coca in its natural state
does not harm human health, and that scientific research has
demonstrated the plant to be "healthy." When drug smugglers change
coca into cocaine, Morales adds, they change the plant's chemical composition.
While the Bolivian president condemns such practices, he also touts
the commercial uses of coca leaf. Bolivia's new constitution,
drafted by the ruling MAS party, recognizes coca as Bolivias
"cultural heritage, a natural and renewable resource of biodiversity
in Bolivia and a factor of social cohesion" and adds that coca leaf
is not a narcotic in its natural state.
Coca leaf, which was domesticated over 4,000 years ago, is usually
chewed with a bitter wood-ash paste to bring out the stimulant
properties which are mild and similar to caffeine or nicotine. In
its pure form, coca serves to ward off hunger and counteracts the
effects of high altitude. Many poor peasants earn their livelihoods
from cultivation of the leaf, and coca has been used for millennia in
cooking, folk remedies and religious ceremonies.
Indeed, for Andean Indians coca leaf is closely tied to the spiritual
world. Offerings to Pachamama, the Mother Earth, begin in August to
scare away malevolent spirits of the dry season and to encourage a
good harvest. Offerings consist of llama foetuses, sweets of various
colors, coca leaf and other herbs. The yatiri, or indigenous priest,
burns the offerings in a bonfire while muttering prayers to the
achachilas, Gods that inhabit the mountains.
The Restorative Powers of Coca Wine
Though Coca Collas launch may have taken Cokes CEOs by surprise, its
certainly not the first time that coca leaf has been incorporated in
commercial drinks. When I was in La Paz researching my recent book
<http://www.amazon.com/Revolution-South-America-Rise-Left/dp/0230617549/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1267639667&sr=1-1>Revolution!
South America and the Rise of the New Left (Palgrave-Macmillan), I
stopped by the citys coca museum where I learned about Mariani, a
coca wine. Launched in Europe in 1863, the wine was launched by
Corsican chemist and entrepreneur Angelo Mariani. The businessman
spawned imitators such as John Styth Pemberton, an Atlanta
entrepreneur who launched his own coca wine. Later, the American
created a syrup which served as the prototype for Coke.
After gathering information about the Inca and its love of coca,
Mariani took up horticulture and began to grow the sacred Andean leaf
in his backyard. Ingeniously, he sent samples of his new wine to
famous people world wide in search of endorsements.
Marianis outreach paid off: the businessman received glowing
testimonials from the likes of Emile Zola, Thomas Edison, Buffalo
Bill Cody and even U.S. President William McKinley, Queen Victoria
and three Popes. In 1885, when Ulysses Grant was in his final death
throes and suffering from throat cancer, he drank coca
wine. Reportedly, the treatment helped soothe his pain.
Vin Mariani is the restorer par excellence, crowed Le Figaro
newspaper in 1877. It is the king of remedies against anemia. It is
a tonic which increases the secretion of gastric juices, produces
appetite. Vin Mariani has the rare advantage of stimulating both the
muscular and cerebral activities.
Just how much of a kick did Mariani deliver? asks Mark Prendergast,
author of For God, Country, and Coca-Cola: The Definitive History of
the Great American Soft Drink and the Company That Makes
It. Fortunately, he says we can hazard a good guess, since a chemist
studying various wine cocas reported in 1886 that Vin Mariani
contained 0.12 grain cocaine per fluid ounce. The dosage on the
wines label called for a claret-glass full before or after every meal
(half a glass for children). Assuming the wineglass to hold six
fluid ounces, three daily glasses would amount to a full bottle of 18
ounces, or 2.16 grains of cocaine per day, enough to make someone
feel very good indeed.
From Coca Liquors to Pasta
Taking up Marianis lead, Andean nations have apparently carried out
their market research and are now doing their utmost to commercialize
other types of alcoholic coca beverages. Take for example the
Peruvian brewery Cervecera Peruana, which plans to export a coca beer
to countries such as China and South Africa. The beer is called Apu,
a magic word signifying God, power and richness in the Quechua
indigenous language.
Another Bolivian beverage company recently launched a coca
whisky. The drink is called Ajayu, which translates as soul or
spirit in the indigenous Aymara language. The whisky packs a punch,
with 32% alcoholic content. According to Ajayus producer, the whisky
conserves all the essential qualities of coca, including more calcium
than milk, more iron than spinach and as much phosphorus as fish.
Boosters hope that Ajayu winds up being the emblematic brand of
Bolivia, much as tequila became identified with Mexico. Each
separate bottle of Ajayu contains 25 grams of coca, and the brands
producers hope to export the drink to Cuba or Venezuela.
Historically, Mariani pioneered the use of coca leaf not only in
beverages but also in other products such as cordials and
tea. Lozenges meanwhile were marketed toward singers, teachers, and
others who sought to ease the throat. Today, Bolivian companies have
taken up Marianis lead and are using coca to make teas, syrups,
toothpaste, liqueurs, candy and pastry. In one Italian restaurant in
La Paz, diners can even order coca spaghetti made from a mixture of
wheat flour and coca leaf.
Coca Colla and Ethnic Pride
Though Bolivias promotion of Coca Colla may cause some to chuckle,
the move could contribute to a further deterioration in U.S.-Bolivian
relations. For years, Bolivias indigenous peoples have bristled
under the U.S.-fueled drug war which demonized coca leaf. In a snub
back at Washington, coca growers from the Chapare region proposed
Coca Colla and it is now Evo Morales, himself a former coca farmer
from Chapare, who has taken up coca nationalism as a cultural and
political rallying cry [for those interested in pursuing this matter
further,
<http://www.amazon.com/Revolution-South-America-Rise-Left/dp/0230617549/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1267639667&sr=1-1>see
my chapter on coca nationalism in my book].
When speaking before adoring crowds, Morales drapes a garland of coca
leaves around his neck and wears a straw hat layered with more
coca. Whats more, Morales claims that the United States seeks to
intervene in Latin American countries by playing up the drug war.
Washington's policy, Morales has charged, is merely "a great
imperialist instrument for geopolitical control." The Bolivian
President argues that the only way to do away with drug trafficking
is to cut off demand.
Raising eyebrows in Washington, Morales recently requested the
removal of coca leaf from a list of banned substances under the 1961
U.N. anti-narcotics convention. Specifically, Bolivia wants to
modify two subsections of Article 49 of the 1961 U.N. convention on
drugs that prohibit chewing of coca leaf. In a theatrical move,
Morales held up coca leaf and actually chewed it in front of a U.N.
panel in Vienna to demonstrate that it had no ill effects. Hardly
amused, the Obama administration announced its opposition to Morales
proposal the very next day.
Coca Tit-for-Tat
The Bolivian presidents UN diplomacy is not too surprising given that
Morales originally came to power in January, 2006 promising to end
forced eradication of coca. In fact, the recent scuffle at the UN
caps a number of other diplomatic fall outs: in September, 2008
Bolivia expelled U.S. ambassador Phil Goldberg, accusing the diplomat
of conspiracy. Shortly thereafter, Morales suspended official
collaboration with the DEA.
Striking back, the Bush administration suspended Bolivias
participation in a tariff-exemption program for Andean nations,
asserting that Morales was not cooperating sufficiently in the war on
drugs. Categorically rejecting that assertion, the Bolivian leader
cited U.N. statistics demonstrating that his government had done
better than Washington allies Colombia and Peru in seizing shipments
of cocaine. Indeed, local authorities claim they have confiscated
tons of cocaine and destroyed many drug laboratories.
Its difficult to see a way out of the morass, given that the Obama
White House does not seem very interested in reversing the foreign
policy course of the earlier Bush years. In fact, Washington says
Morales is not doing enough to clamp down on drug smuggling and has
continued to exclude Bolivia from the U.S. tariff exemption program.
An excluded black man can exclude an Indian man, Morales
declared. The so-called Indians and blacks have historically been
the most excluded, the most marginalized, Morales added. If he wants
to exclude us let him continue to exclude us; that doesnt matter to
us. In another round of the endless tit-for-tat, Morales recently
expelled U.S. diplomat Francisco Martnez, also on charges of conspiracy.
Increased Cultivation for Coca-Colla?
Joking aside, the Coca-Colla imbroglio may add yet another twist on
the recent diplomatic fall out. Like neighboring Peru, Bolivia
permits certain limited cultivation of coca for use in cooking, folk
medicine and religious rites. If plans for Coca Colla move forward,
however, Bolivia will have to grow more coca, thus putting a further
strain on U.S. relations.
Under Bolivia law, up to 30,000 acres of land may be cultivated with
coca, but Morales wants to increase that to nearly 50,000 hectares in
an effort to further commercialize the leaf. With the new excess
cultivation, Bolivia will be well placed to launch its new Coca
Colla. While promoting the beverage is sure to irritate Washington,
the move is politically smart for Morales as he may drum up support
against an unpopular corporation while helping to bring welcome
resources to coca growers.
Whether or not the initiative is a success, notes a recent column on
the environmental website treehugger, Bolivia may find international
support for standing up to a company that many see as an unfeeling
capitalist juggernaut with a product that better serves the
environment and livelihoods of the people producing it. No word on
how Coca-Colla will taste, but there's already something refreshing about it.
Nikolas Kozloff is the author of
<http://www.amazon.com/Revolution-South-America-Rise-Left/dp/0230617549/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1267639667&sr=1-1>Revolution!
South America and the Rise of the New Left (Palgrave-Macmillan), and
<http://www.amazon.com/No-Rain-Amazon-Americas-Climate/dp/0230614760/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1266891858&sr=1-1>No
Rain in the Amazon: How South Americas Climate Affects the Entire
Planet, to be released by Palgrave-Macmillan in a matter of
weeks. Visit his blog,
<http://www.nikolaskozloff.com/>http://www.nikolaskozloff.com/
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